Hawaii, the Big Island – Part 4

Morning view from the lanai

The following day started much like the previous one: with Allison waking up far too early. This was followed by a leisurely breakfast on the lanai, checking of email/news/Twitter on the lanai, and discussing the day’s plans. On the lanai.

Today was going to be the day we drove over to Hilo (“hee-low”) which was the closest thing to a city on the Big Island. It was on the opposite (east) side of the island. It was my understanding that things were quite different on that side of the island. Hilo was also home to the Pacific Tsunami Museum which my father-in-law was keen to visit, and other sights. We we eager to go.

The drive to Hilo from we were staying in the Waikoloa area was about 75 miles long, mostly along the Mamalahoa Highway. It was about a 90-minute drive, which was really good time for Hawaii.

Unexpected social commentary in Waimea

The drive was interesting. We headed up the “Queen K” highway and then cut east through the small town of  Waimea.As we progressed further east, the arid lava fields quickly gave way to a very pastoral, green countryside. I gathered that much of this rural area consisted of farms and the enormous 135,000-acre holdings of Parker Ranch.

The weather was very nice, although it was overcast and a little foggy in areas as we climbed to the higher elevations, peaking around perhaps 3,000′. By the time we reached the eastern coast of the island – the windward side – things looked very different indeed.

Rather suddenly, we began to pass through large sections of dense, tall jungles filled with tropical plants. There were extremely tall trees, beautiful spread-out trees that made me think of full-size bonsai trees, bushes with enormous green leaves as large as a person, hanging vines and flowering trees and plants everywhere.

Umauma Falls, on the windward side of the island

Now this was Hawaii! The landscape was completed to perfection by the many rivers and streams, and spectacular waterfalls that decorated the coastal route. There were a lot of Ooohs! and Aaahs! in our rental car, except from Allison, who was snoring loudly in the back seat.

We arrived in Hilo and so began the process of trying to locate our designated lunch spot. One of the guidebooks had recommended a place called Cafe 100 which my father-in-law wanted to try. When we arrived, I could tell it was not quite what he had in mind, although I thought it was a fine choice. It seemed like a true local spot, with few (if any) touristas like ourselves, something I am personally fond of. All of the seating was in covered outdoor areas that surrounded three of the building’s four sides.

They served what I took to be typical, local working-class foods. I chose one of several variations of the “loco-moco” dish which consisted of steamed white rice which was then covered with a brown chili, a slice of Spam, a few smokies, and topped with a couple of eggs over easy. Strange, wonderful, and a lot of food! I would not in a million years recommend it for everyone, but I really enjoy trying unusual local foods so I had to try it. It was about as far removed from fancy haute cuisine as possible, but it was great fun to have a little culinary adventure for lunch.

After lunch we drove several blocks over to the small Pacific Tsunami Museum where we watched an educational video in a former bank vault (the vault door was still in place)and then browsed the displays. I knew little about Hawaii’s history with tidal waves, so the information and survivors’ stories were very interesting. Particularly memorable was the story of the teacher who had come from Ohio, straight out of college, whose job in paradise took an unexpected turn when the 1946 tsunami swept away the Laupāhoehoe schoolhouse.

Schoolhouses and homes were swept away in the 1949 tsunami

Back in the present, it had been an exceptional day. Especially considering that it was a Monday, of all things! More to come next time…